Cheers went up yesterday among the exhausted rescuers at Rana Plaza
factory in Dhaka , Bangladesh . It had just been
announced that six factory owners had been arrested.
So far 380 garment workers, mainly women, are known to have
died in the rubble of that huge building, where 3,000 people were working at
the time of its collapse.
The worst ever factory disaster in Bangladesh ’s
history has shocked people around the world, including those who wear clothes
purchased at Primark, Benetton and Walmart, which used the factory. Matalan and
Bonmarché are also appear to be connected with the New Wave Style company, the
largest employer in the Dhaka building.
Many share the desire to make those who profit from
employing cheap labour by making people work under such lethal conditions pay
for their crimes. But – and there are several buts – will punishing these men put an end to the
crude and cruel exploitation of human labour that takes place day in and day
out, not only in Bangladesh but throughout the world?
And how could this murder – and it is a kind of murder –
happen so soon after the fire at the Tazreen factory last November, also in Dhaka , in which 112 people died? Why was nothing done after that?
The factory owners at Rana Plaza
insisted workers should return to work even after safety engineers warned that
huge cracks in the building’s walls were evident. They were told they would be
docked three days pay for every day they were absent.
In the wake of these events, many shoppers feel complicit in
the suffering of those in the Bangladeshi rag trade. Are we wearing “blood
clothes”, they ask? Calls for consumers
to boycott companies like Primark are widespread. Ethical buying is said to be
the solution.
Like so many others, London
Evening Standard fashion editor Karen
Dacre calls for “consumer power” to force changes in the clothing industry. That
sounds good. But how can you tell how a company treats its workers? And who is
responsible for auditing conditions?
Responsibility
Outsourced, a report
by major US
trade unions, is deeply critical of the companies and organisations that are
supposed to monitor how workers are treated. The Ali Enterprises factory in Pakistan in
which 260 workers died in a fire last year, had just earned its certification from
the non-profit social auditing group, Social Accountability International.
In the report, which is dedicated to murdered garment workers
leader Aminul Islam, the unions are deeply critical of social audit firms,
including the Fair Labour Organisation which monitors the Foxconn plant that
supplies Apple. FLA
gets money from corporates such as Apple and Nestlé.
Trade union and labour activists know that factories are not
going to police themselves and are rightly calling for binding agreements. But
even after a binding agreement was developed by labour organisations, Wal-Mart
and Sears not only refused to sign but refused to pay compensation to the
Tazreen victims.
But, while the report avoids saying so, it is the capitalist
system itself which is the real murderer. As it notes: “While this globalised
business model continues to provide vast profits for companies, it comes at a
tremendous cost to working people and to the economies of many of the poorest
nations.”
Human labour is simply another commodity to be bought and
sold, at the cheapest price going. That’s why manufacturers moved into Bangladesh in
the first place. The Rana
Plaza was just one of the
5,500 factories Bangladeshi rag trade factories where the average monthly wage
of the three million workers is around £25 per month. Clothing production
accounts for 82% of Bangladesh ’s
GDP, a huge rise
since 1985.
Companies must seek out the cheapest labour possible to
out-do their competitors. No amount of consumer boycotting or regulation will
abolish that underlying imperative. As one Bangladeshi union organiser told the
BBC: "You buy one get one free - but it's not really free."
The global corporations will always find willing
accomplices, whether it is in Bangladesh ,
China , Brazil or in Britain in their search for
profits. Moving on from an economic system driven by greed and profit is the
biggest priority of all.
Corinna Lotz
A World
to Win secretary
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